rainy daze

Last week the rain started. The vibes in the air were similar to that of a snow day in Portland. Everyone was a little excited to pull out their sweaters and raincoats and sit cozily inside somewhere.

I woke up last Wednesday to the sound of rain. I brushed my teeth and then went downstairs to see Maura and Nando and continue to watch the rain fall. As the guests pulled their luggage out of the dorms on their way out of town- be it to Utila or to somewhere far, far away like Managua- there was a certain sense of dread. Soggy from the night before, these travelers were in no mood to be wet any longer.

I had been feeling a similar angst for a couple of days, though the weather had been favorable. I think I felt a change in air pressure in my bones and mi alma was a bit unsettled. At the last minute I decided to join the two guests that were headed up to the lodge.

We loaded their luggage into the jeep. The guests sat inside the jeep with Johnny and Don Nando and I guarded the bags in the back. Despite my plastic poncho and umbrella, I was soaked by the time we got to the lodge. I changed my clothes (thank you Andrea!) but not before I took in the sight of the swollen, angry river.

It was the most refreshing sight I´d seen in days. In the days prior, I could feel this torment coming and suddenly there was a release. I could feel the melancholy washing away from me. My heart felt light again.

I stood on the rocks with Wilmer and Jorge and we watched as Queso kayak down the suddenly Class VI rapids that would turn into a giant hole within the hour. As the water continued to raise so did our excitement.

The two guests stared out at the river in so much shock that they asked for a taxi back to La Ceiba so they could get on that bus to somewhere far, far away.

Los muchachos del rio, however, were not going to wait for toursits to go down. The drug themselves from bed, the kitchen, the village, pulled on their salva vidas, got the raft and were pulled away into the currents. They were back within the hour as the chocholatey waters moved them downriver so fast.

That afternoon back in La Ceiba, Andrea, Darwin and I had some delicious sopa cangrejo. I helped Darwin with his laundry remembering the delight of fresh from the drier clothes. We lounged in the hammocks reading books, watching the rain continue to fall.

It looks like this is going to be how it is for the next month or so. The season is low and the rain is falling. Trips on the river are getting further apart, and when they happen there is a new vitality and excitement in finding out how the river has gently changed.

Some of the guides like to jazz up the guests by shouting ¨whose the best!? we`re the best!!¨ after completing a rapid. But I must agree with one jungle boy, who instead praises the strength of the river after each rapid ¨The river is the best¨. It is so powerful and so dangerous.....but when you properly pay attention to the mood of the river, it allows you to navagate. It is strength and knowledge that moves us safely down the river. Muchas gracias guias y rio.

The night the rain began we went out with Oscar and Angel to Expatriados to watch the Honduras vs Jamaica futbol game. Funny that these two teams are in in the same qualifying foursome for the World Cup. I must say I wasn´t too sad that Honduras lost.....I still feel such a giant love in my heart for Jamaica. But I do love the Honduran team and will cheer for them from now on.

Today the river is still lleno. Raul took Nando and I to the lodge for the day just because he is the nicest man on the planet. In the morning I watched Spiderman while Darwin and Angel made us breakfast and in the afternoon we took the jeep to Rio Viejo.

Darwin, being in quite an informative mood, told us all about all sorts of things en la cuenca. We found Luis and Adelman hanging out on the roadside, so we took them and Tania, la hermanita, along with us. The road winds up and there are stunning views that overlook the river. The sun did its best to peek out and for the two hours we were on the road the rain let up.

The drive reminded me so much of driving around in the country truck in the Jamaican Cockpit Country with Donovan, Dixon and Rhoads. The villages are tiny and smokey and full of naked children and chickens. Darwin stopped and talked to a handful of people about the price and availibility of 5 manos de maiz. Dazzling children smiled at us and everyone waved from their yards and we breezed by. Yo amo las aldeas.

It is still raining. I am comfy and warm in La Ceiba. I have a cup of coco and a long sleved shirt on. I put the quilt on my bed (fresh from the drier! I can´t wait to go to bed!) and I know that I can expect to be lulled to sleep by the sound of rain on banana leafs. Sueños dulces......